5 STRATEGIES YOU CAN LEARN FROM SUSTAINABLE BRANDS IN SOUTH EAST ASIA (PART 1)
Slowly but surely, the fashion industry is moving towards a more sustainable future. Prestigious institutions such as Central Saint Martins and Parsons have incorporated sustainability into their study programs, conglomerates like Kering and LMVH all own one or two eco labels, and this April, the retail giant H&M released it's goal to be climate positive by 2040 throughout the group’s entire value chain. Contributing to this revolution are not only those big names but also a group of emerging indie fashion brands around the world, particularly in South East Asia. Acting as a guide, this article will help you discover this relatively new, yet no less exciting hub of eco-conscious creatives, and maybe you could pick up a few things from their innovative business models.
1. Vintage retail and conscious stocking
The 2nd hand clothing & accessories market is booming in Vietnam, which could be sign of the consumer's growth in eco-fashion awareness. However, on a closer look, this trend of buying pre-owned is anything but positive. The biggest reason for vintage item's popularity is it's dirt cheap price. A used chemise that may cost as little as 9,000 VND (~0,4 USD) will only encourage overconsumption and short garment's life cycle, leading us right back to the source of problem. The solution? Only buy what you love or what you need, and treat them well.
Magenta Vintage offers some of the best vintage clothing in Hanoi, each and every one of the garments are handpicked from the source by the owner. This explains why the price of a vintage item is equal with a new one, and is 2 to 3 times higher than the average price of 2nd hand clothes in Vietnam. Magenta Vintage notoriously steer away a lot of customers because of its high price, but "handpicked, high quality vintage items that are dry washed and ironed, mixed and matched with style, are hung in a chicly decorated boutique do not come cheap," says Miss N - owner of Magenta Vintage. "If a product is beautiful, it's meant to be appreciated, regardless of its origin".
If a product is beautiful, it's meant to be appreciated, regardless of its origin
Miss N also shares her principles when stocking for her boutique, new and old alike. First, the product needs to be of high quality – durable and well-made. Second, it should be either flexible and can be mixed and matched with many other items, or very unique statement clothing that you'll love at first glance. She hopes that this would make the customers wear her clothes for a long time and treasure them more. Pretty good strategy if you want to be an eco-conscious retailer.
2. Support the artisans to preserve traditional techniques
South East Asia is home to many ethnic groups who master in some of the world's most wonderful textile techniques. However, both indigenous communities and their traditional crafts are endangered or exploited by fast fashion mass-production – an issue ethical brands are trying to tackle. The common solution is working directly with the artisans, by incorporating modern aesthetics with traditional materials to create fashionable and meaningful products which would thrive in new markets.
Torajamelo is an Indonesian-based company which aims to empower rural female weavers, and revive the nation's traditional weaving industry. It's popular hand-woven scarves called Pa'bunga-bunga (meaning flowery patterns) are made using a rare weaving technique. At the beginning, only two elderly women in their 70s still made these scarves, but as Torajamelo collaborated with the weavers to create new, more modern colour combinations which made demand grow, the younger generation started to "re-learn" this weaving skills. Torajamelo offers a wide range of products, from clothing and accessories to gift and homeware. You can find their online shop here.
Another example is Studio Naena in Chiangmai Thailand. Founded in 1988 by Patricia Cheesman Naena – a renowned expert in traditional Thai and Lao textile, the Studio trained local weavers the weft ikat technique, which was considered lost in northen Thailand, and provide women with jobs to create a sustainable income from this craft in a supportive environment.
3. Natural fabric, naturally dyed
According to Cottonedon.org, conventional cotton destroys soil quality, use huge amounts of pesticides that poison both the farmers and the environment, not to mention the rampant use of toxic dyes and processing substance that results in 20% of all polluted water in the world. This explains a large part of sustainable brands use certified organic cotton, natural fibers and non-toxic or natural dyes. But you know what's cooler than using natural materials in your collection? Grow them yourself!
Kilomet109 is a Vietnamese, Hanoi-based eco-conscious clothing line that collaborates with ethnic minority women in north Cao Bang province of Vietnam to produce natural fibers (cotton and calendering hemp) and dyeing plants for its collections. Every two months, Vu Thao – owner and designer of the brand, makes a trip to Cao Bang to participate in the growing and harvesting of crops, and experimenting with new hues. Even the traditional sheer silk used in her 2015 KHOI collection is specially commissioned, handcrafted women by a family with 4 generations of silk weaving in Ha Tay province.
Apparently, getting involved in every part of garment making also benefits the design process. “When you’re making fabric from scratch, your relationship with the fibers is so strong,” Thao said in an interview with The Creators Project. “When you understand the fabric, you use it better. It’s a completely different relationship than buying fabric found in a market.”
When you're making fabric from scratch, your relationship with the fibers is so strong: you understand the fabric, and you use it better
Kilomet109 clothes are sought after not only for their sophisticated and versatile design, but also for the cultural depth and the amount of care that goes into each product. Their Instagram and Facebook feeds are the doors into the fascinating journey of craft and creation. You can find their products online here.
<to be continued here>
